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#1 |
Registered User
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Installing Transgo Shift Kit in a 48RE
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2006 - 3500 Mega Billet Goerend Trans Smarty Jr, 35" Nitto Trails on 18's Leveled, Bags 150,000 miles |
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#2 |
Registered User
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Page 3.
Be careful pulling the part throttle body off! These springs are ready to fly. Even though the instructions say no need to remove these springs, they are going to come out anyway. I took out the springs to wash the VB and left in the valves. Step 1 replace the spring is easy. I did put the gold spacer in and tapped the plug pin in where it is shown. |
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#3 |
Registered User
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Page 4.
This page is easy, and by now you are well past your fears and are quick to catch springs. The mumbly peg just wedges the ball and spring in the hole and holds them in place while you put the rooster comb back on. It will be forced out by the rooster comb. Do not do step 2 yet. You will be flipping the VB around for a while and cleaning, just remember when it all goes back together, the cherry bomb replaces one of the *****. Here's a shot of where the ***** were... Step three - grinding the switch valve. I have a bench mounted belt sander that took this part down in about 2 seconds. Quite easy actually. And step 4. I didn't have to bend anything. You want to be sure the new thinner valve still seals partition A as you apply outward pressure with the trans in park. |
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#4 |
Registered User
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Page 5.
Step 1, Drill the hole shown straight through the VB, right out the far side with the larger of the two included bits. Plug the hole at the mating surface with the supplied plug. Drive this plug below flush. In the picture it is proud yet, just for illustration. Step 2, Put another plug in. And in step 3 you'll have to deal with the one spring as you put the new transfer plate on. Step 4, remove the pretty purple spring and put three new springs in. The package comes with four. ??? You can discern which one by fitting them and then counting coils and comparing to the pictures in the instructions. I'll just tell you it's the heavier spring. ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered User
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Page 6.
Page 6 just makes you mad. Why do they wait until now to tell you that maybe you have the wrong kit? I didn't drill the hole for a snow plow. This would be using the smaller bit in the kit which actually measures .105" There are some good ball locations on page 6. The top picture shows two *****, but you never remove the plate holding them in, so no worries. The bottom picture you will need to be sure the .187 ball is in the right spot. |
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#6 |
Registered User
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Page 7
Pretty simple. Install springs, re-using the white one and nesting two others. Step 2, adjust the PR spring, just back it off until it just bottoms out away from the VB, so it's at the maximum looseness. Step 3, super easy, no surprises here. I don't even know why we replace this.... |
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#7 |
Registered User
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Now you can put it all back together however it works best for you, but I put it together upside down to make sure all my plates matched, then flipped everything back over so the screws were on top and I could tighten them. I couldn't find any torque specs so I got them really snug. If I had to guess, I'd say 5 to 7 foot pounds. Using a 1/4" ratchet it was firmly tight. Or about as tight as you could go with a screwdriver socket set.
Now reverse the removal for putting it back in the truck. Get the shift shaft and the electrical plug in their holes and don't worry about the shift linkage thingy just yet. Put a couple bolts in just to hang the VB in place. You need to get the e-clip back on that linkage. Once you get that (remember you can get at it by moving the rooster comb to low gear) you are home free. Bolt up the VB, put the electrical plug back on. Put the VB in park (fully in the direction you can't get at the e-clip and the position sensor on the rooster comb is fully depressed) and now you can wiggle the shifter linkage back on the shift shaft and tighten the compression bolt. Drop the TV motor back on the shift shaft making sure you have the D shaft lined up. You can turn this from inside the VB. It will drop on and you can reinstall the two bolts that hold that on. Mine was VERY loose from the factory, maybe just inch pounds tight, but I snugged those bolts up anyway. I turned on the key and ran the shifter through its range of motion and made sure the reverse lights were on when I was was in reverse. Reinstall the filter or put in a new one if it has been a while. Bolt the pan back up, I don't have those specs.... I went 15 foot pounds. Please post if you know. I added 10.5 quarts of fluid and that was perfect. (horseshoe up my wazoo I think ![]() Start the truck, look for fluid loss. Put it in gear with your foot on the brake. I guess the most important thing is to be sure you are in park when you are supposed to be. I think that compression fitting on the shift shaft is adjustable and if you weren't in park when you bolted it up, you may not get in park now. Road test. If all checks out, buy yourself a beer! ![]() |
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#8 |
Registered User
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Pictures I couldn't fit in my story due to sequencing or just plain poor storytelling....
This cover holds in the servo. Just take the bolts out and pull up on the cover and it will pull the servo out with it. This tube is in your way to pull 3 bolts holding the VB together. It looks like you have to bend it or something. The instructions again say nothing. Just pull the tube out! I put a screwdriver behind the tube where it goes into the VB and gently pried and it pops right out. The metal bracket on top kind of holds it in the VB I guess. |
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#9 |
Registered User
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Great write up !! I wish you could have gotten the pics. in there.. To me a pic is worth a thousand words... How many hrs did it take u ???
I think you deserved atleast 2 beers ![]() It will take me a few months to recover from the new tires b-4 I can get 1. some here are made of $ I got left out somewhere ![]() Did you also install the billet servo , etc, ?
__________________
07 2500 SLT 5.9 4x4, 373 gears , turbo Silencer removed,,Airaid tube |
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#10 | |
Registered User
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Quote:
I installed nothing except the kit. I still have the 1-2 shuttle shift after I tried to clean out the servo, so I guess I'll need to get the new servo set up soon. |
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#11 |
Registered User
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darn it !!
That looks like you done a lot of work to write all that up .. Man I wish I could see the Pics too. thanks for posting.
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04.5 DRW 3500 stock- Intank LP |
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#12 |
Registered User
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Okay, what's with the pictures? I can see them.... This sounds very bad... I'm going to have to look into this....
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#13 | |
Registered User
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Quote:
![]() Nice camera work ( for what I can see so far ) |
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#14 | |
Registered User
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Quote:
70 bucks. I was told you need to replace servo, the steel arm ( what ever it's called) for the band & a billet anchor, etc, for 300 + Did you have to drill the small hole or was that an option ?? I kinda hate to go drlling in the vb or tranny case. I'm scared. The only thing I comfortable tackling was the GM solenoid conversion kit Ok I saved this post to my favorites incase I ever get the nerve ![]() O' and again good job ! Now go have another beer on ME |
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#15 | |
Banned
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Quote:
Nice write up and explanation. ![]() |
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